Lidewij Edelkoort Trends Autumn Winter 2019/ 2020

All wrapped up in handmade textiles

Jun 22, 2018 by Irene Vermeulen

Is it climate change, consumer fatigue or have retailers finally gone made because of the quick pace in which collections need to be renewed? Whatever the reason, people do not really buy their winter clothes in August or September anymore. Lidewij Edelkoort therefore predicts a more gradual transition from summer to winter, and called her autumn/ winter 19/20 fashion presentation ‘Indian Summer’, with a matching very light and summery colour card. Craftscurator hand-picked the most relevant highlights for home and interior.

For the home textiles industry, autumn/winter is the season to go all out - especially now that blankets, rugs and other home textiles play such an important role in the interior. We will literally be all wrapped up in textiles in the next year. Blankets are the key items - they will not just be used on the sofa or on the bed, we will wear them as shawls too. The rug or throw used as a wall hanging is also making a comeback.

The blankets and textiles come in warm and saturated tones, like camel brown, dusty pink and yellow, rust, mud and a wasabi green. As Edelkoort pointed out, the ‘Indian Summer’ colourcard is remarkably light, and for the interior we often see light colors being combined with dark browns.

The key influences for home textiles are;

Khadi - handwoven cotton fabric made of homespun yarn. When Gandhi was promoting swaraj, or self-rule (independence from the British) in India, he urged Indians to discard their milled cloth from England, learn to spin and weave cotton themselves, and wear only cloth that was produced by hand in India. Khadi is a symbol of resilience and empowerment. For the cloth, cotton is most commonly used, but there is also khadi made of silk or wool. Khadi shops also sell eri silk, produced without killing the worms that nests in the coccoon. In accordance with Ghandi's principle of non-violence.

Kantha - hand-quilting using tiny embroidery stitches. It is often done on a khadi base, either a plain or a patterned one. Women in Bengal typically use old saris and cloth and layer them with kantha stitching to make a light blanket.

Blockprints - bold handmade prints on plain cotton fabric. Basic printing techniques are making a comeback in textile design. The bold and irregular effect of a block print works well on a imperfect handwoven base cloth.

Animal fibers - such as mohair, cashmere, camel and yak khullu are used for blankets. They come from places with extreme weather conditions, like highlands and deserts. The herders and farmers taking care of the animals are dealing with the effects of climate change. The interest in the fibres and products they produce is a positive impulse for the local economy.

Felted textiles and boiled wool continue to play an important role in the interior. Especially when they are handmade - with colors delicately fading, and irregular raw edges.

Basotho tribal blankets come from Southern Africa. In Lesotho, they are widely worn by herders, wrapping themselves in them. What makes Basotho blankets unique is the layout of the design, the various symbols used, the bold colour combinations and the characteristic pin-stripe. This stripe was originally a weaving fault which has become a unique part of the design and dictates how the blanket is worn.

Happy wrapping!

Are you a brand or retailer interested in adding more handmade products to your offer? Craftscurator is experienced in sourcing suppliers and new product development. Get in touch to find out what we can do for your business.

Blanket made of silk khadi
by X and L
hand block printed shawl by 5th generation master printers in Bagru
by Blockshoptextiles
Blockprint on handmade cotton rag paper
by Blockshoptextiles
Hand embroidered Kantha throw
by Blockshoptextiles
Mohair blankets designed by Laduma Ngxokolo
Manufactured by South African Hinterveld
Basotho heritage blankets
by South African manufacturer Aranda
Lesotho herder wrapped in tribal blanket
Photo by Thom Pierce
Cashmere shawl celebrating the Mongolian landscape
by Oyuna
Shawl made of yak khullu
From Norlha on the Tibetan plateau
Kantha hand stitches on a patterned cloth
by Conran Shop
Blanket made of yak wool
From Norlha on the Tibetan plateau
Wool about to be hand felted for Kvadrat
in that amazing wasabi green color
Handwoven cotton fabrics
by Plantation House India
Eri 'peace' silk handwoven shawl
by Weaving Destination